Over the long Easter weekend, we did what I think a lot of slightly sleep-deprived, “new parent” types end up doing—we booked a very last-minute day trip to Lyon, a shy 2hrs trip from Geneva. We decided not to stay overnight since we had a bigger long-haul trip coming up just a few days later (because apparently we enjoy chaos now 😅).
So if you’re thinking of doing something similar, here’s a super easy, low-stress guide to spending one lovely day in Lyon—plus a few local tips that might just save your sanity along the way.
🚆 Getting there via public transportation (survival tip)
Getting to Lyon from Geneva is quite straightforward via public transportation, as there are many trains going throughout the day. It’s about a 2hr journey (direct), which makes a day trip completely doable. You can book tickets directly through the SBB mobile app.
If tickets are sold out on the SBB Mobile app, don’t panic. Go to the train station before customs (usually platform 7-8), and purchase a day ticket (About 88€ round trip – For 2x adults + 1x 4yo child + 1x baby —honestly not bad):
- Go early especially if you’re travelling with small kids.
- Seating is first come, first serve, so yes, sometimes people sit on the floor 💀.
If you’re more of a budget traveller, you can consider taking Flixbus, where tickets can be as cheap as 10€. The journey averages out to be 2h40m by bus. It runs 6 times a day from Geneva to Lyon, so you definitely need to be more mindful of the time.
🚃 Gentle Start With An Iconic Viewpoint
Since we started the day pretty early (we took the 7:20am train… bold, I know), we wanted to ease into things instead of rushing around. So we headed straight up to Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière to see Lyon from above.
We took the funicular up, which honestly made the whole experience more fun—especially for my 4-year-old, who was very excited about going to what she calls “Jesus House.” Side note: she’s currently very into churches, not for any deep spiritual reason, but (I strongly suspect) for the candle-lighting opportunities. Fair enough.
Some History:
- The basilica itself is actually pretty fascinating. It was built in the late 1800s as a kind of thank-you offering after Lyon was spared during the Franco-Prussian War. Architecturally, it’s a bit of a mix—Byzantine on the inside with lots of mosaics and gold details, and more Romanesque on the outside.
- Also, fun detail: the building is kind of designed upside down—the richly decorated sanctuary is on the upper level, while the lower level is much more understated.
And if you’re traveling with someone who enjoys the occasional nerdy detail (hi, husbands everywhere), there’s a surprisingly cool LEGO model of the basilica in the gift shop just before the viewpoint. Slightly unexpected, but kind of great.
Morning Walk
By this point, both my little one and I were starting to get a bit hungry (read: slightly hangry), so we made our way down from the hill into the main part of Lyon toward the restaurant where we had reservations (more on that in a bit).
The walk down is honestly part of the experience. You get these beautiful views along the way, and then suddenly you’re weaving through what feel like almost enchanted streets—old buildings, narrow passageways, and little hidden corners that make you slow down whether you planned to or not. No complaints here.
Lyon itself has a really interesting history. It dates all the way back to Roman times and was once an important hub for trade and silk production. You’ll notice that mix as you walk around—grand historic buildings alongside more lived-in, everyday neighborhoods.
That statue is literally how my husband carries me after a long ass day of motherhood. Any other mamas relate? lol
Lyon, The “Capital of Gastronomy“
Lyon is often called the food capital of France—which sounds like a pretty big statement… until you actually spend a few hours eating there and start to understand why.
A lot of that reputation comes from its history. Lyon sits between some of France’s best farming regions, so it’s always had access to amazing ingredients. It also became famous thanks to a group of female chefs known as the Mères Lyonnaises, who shaped the city’s rich, comforting style of cooking. Later on, legendary chefs like Paul Bocuse helped put Lyon on the global culinary map.
What’s nice about Lyon though is that it’s not just about fancy, Michelin-style dining. It’s just as much about simple, hearty meals—think buttery sauces, slow-cooked dishes, and cozy little bouchons where the food feels very homey (and sometimes very heavy… in the best way).
We could have easily gone for something more upscale, but decided to keep things simple and satisfying instead.
Here are a few recommendations from local friends:
Brunch
Mexican
The shrimp taco was excellent as were two cheesy appetizers. One was like a melted provoletta with minced meat on top that you would take to eat with their tortilla. The second was even better in my opinion which was like a cheesy quesadilla with minced beef
Italian (Where we ended up going!)
- Carmelo
- Pizza, pasta, tiramisu = all solid
- Big restaurant → easier to get a table
- My suggestion: order their stracciatella appetiser and eat it with pizza crust
And if you get dessert:
Ask for “lots of tiramisu” with enthusiasm.
It’s basically a personality test for how generous your server feels 😂
My hungry stomach ate all the food before I realized I forgot to take pictures of the food!
Japanese + Ramen
- Tomo
- Smaller menu but high quality
- Call to reserve
- Not convenient for small children as it’s all high chairs / tall tables
This is the best ramen I’ve come across in Lyon but still not comparable to Asia (ha!). It’s a same owner as Tomo. I like the homemade dumplings here, which is a bit bigger in size than the usual gyoza
Don’t want to travel too far for ramen? Read more about our guide to Geneva’s Best Noodle Soups
Boulangerie
Close to Ramen Djizan, just across the river, there’s a boulangerie that I go to often, even though I walk past like 10 other ones on my way there. They have the best baguette and lots of stuff is good here
Traditional (heavy but classic)
- Café Comptoir Abel
- If you’re looking for a traditional bouchon, this is one is a pretty good one, it’s heavy (like all bouchon) due to the sauce and butter. This is supposedly the oldest bouchon in Lyon.
Praline (A Lyon Classic)
One thing you’ll quickly notice in Lyon is its love for praline—but not the chocolate kind you might be thinking of. Here, praline refers to bright pink, sugar-coated almonds that have become a bit of a local obsession.
The story goes back a few centuries, but Lyon really made it its own by turning it into desserts—most famously the tarte aux pralines, a glossy pink tart that’s equal parts sweet, nutty, and slightly indulgent. You’ll also find praline in brioche, pastries, and pretty much anything a boulangerie can dream up.
Inside Les Hall Paul Bocuse is a boulangerie called Jocteur Boulangerie (middle aisle).
- Their praline sablé = not too sweet
- Pairs well with coffee
Now To Digest It All
After our lovely (and very filling) meal, we did what felt most natural—slow things down and wander a bit around Lyon. It’s one of those cities that doesn’t really need a strict plan. You just walk, turn a corner, and somehow end up somewhere charming.
And if you’re anything like us, it’s physically impossible to walk past a bookstore without going in—especially when you’re greeted by a full rainbow wall of books.
- Librairie Le Bal des Ardents is such a cozy, slightly magical spot. As if we needed more coffee table books, we obviously walked out with another one to add to our collection.
The After-Meal Wind-Down
- VELICA Coffee Shop
- Cozy coffee spot
- Sometimes with fun drinks (roasted marshmallow topping)
Giraffes In Lyon? You’re Not Wrong.
To round off the day, we headed to this park—and honestly, it’s kind of a whole experience on its own.
It’s huge:
- You can rent canoes 🚣♀️
- There’s a small zoo (yes, including giraffes 🦒)
- Playgrounds and little rides for kids
- Even a mini train that loops around parts of the park
It’s the kind of place where you plan to “just stop by” and end up staying way longer than expected…
I may or may not have taken a quick nap on the grass at one point—purely a result of that very ambitious early wake-up for this trip, of course but also because motherhood.
🏡 In Case You Decide To Stay Longer
- Best areas (in order):
- 6ème (69006) – quiet, upscale, parks, stroller-friendly
- 1er (69001) – great for short stays
- 2ème (69002) – central, convenient
- 4ème (Croix-Rousse) – cute but hilly (your legs will notice)
- Avoid suburbs like Meyzieu, Bron, Chassieu unless you enjoy long commutes.
- Vieux Lyon:
- Beautiful but very cobblestone-heavy
- Older buildings = fewer elevators
- Cute for photos, slightly annoying with a stroller (speaking from experience)
We caught the 18:30 train back, picked up something simple for dinner, and ate on the ride home while everyone slowly started winding down.
All in all, it was such a lovely, easy kind of trip. We didn’t try to squeeze in too much, just went at our own pace—and with two kids, that already feels like a small victory. Somehow, we still managed to see a good mix of the city, eat really well, and enjoy the day without feeling rushed.
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